Tbilisi → Kazbegi by car: a 2-day route

The classic trip out of Tbilisi to the north runs along the Georgian Military Road to the foot of Kazbek. Over two days you pass Ananuri fortress, climb up to the Jvari (Cross) Pass at Gudauri and reach Stepantsminda, from where there’s a view of Gergeti Trinity Church and Mount Kazbek itself.

Day 1: Tbilisi → Ananuri → Gudauri → Stepantsminda

Set off from Tbilisi in the morning. The first big stop is Ananuri fortress on the shore of the Zhinvali Reservoir: a castle complex with towers and churches right above the turquoise water. The road then climbs up towards Gudauri and the Jvari Pass; along the way is the Friendship of Nations arch with a viewing platform over the Devdoraki gorge. By evening you descend into Stepantsminda (Kazbegi), a convenient place to spend the night.

Day 2: Gergeti and the return

The morning of the second day is the climb to Gergeti Trinity Church above Stepantsminda: on foot along the trail or by 4×4 up the dirt road. This is the postcard point of the route - a lone church on a hill against snowy Kazbek. After lunch comes the drive back to Tbilisi along the same route.

What to keep in mind on the route

• The distances and times in the route card are rounded guides, not exact measurements; the real figures depend on traffic, the weather and how many stops you make.
• The Georgian Military Road is a mountain highway with a pass; in winter closures and restrictions are possible. Check the state of the road before you set off.
• Allow extra time for photo stops: the views on this route are its main draw.

The easiest way to sort a car for this route is to arrange it in advance - see the car hire section. Along the way you pass Ananuri fortress, Gudauri with the Jvari Pass, Stepantsminda and Gergeti Trinity Church - each point has its own card with the details. If it is the drive itself that draws you rather than a night under Kazbek - where to pull over and what happens to the tarmac up high - there is a separate stop-by-stop guide to the Georgian Military Road that also fits into a single day. More trip plans are in the routes section.