Alaverdi Monastery in Kakheti: cathedral, wine and access

Alaverdi is one of Georgia’s most imposing monasteries: its cathedral rises from the middle of the flat Alazani Valley, and the slender cone of its dome can be seen from far off against the Caucasus range. It is an ancient monastery of Kakheti, known both as a great church monument and as a place where the monks are reviving the traditions of Georgian winemaking.

Why the monastery is famous

Alaverdi was founded in the 6th century by the Assyrian monk Joseph (Yoseb) Alaverdeli - one of the Assyrian Fathers who came to preach in Georgia. The main church, St George Cathedral, was built later, in the 11th century, under the Kakhetian king Kvirike III, on the site of an earlier church.

The cathedral is striking for its height: at over 55 metres it long remained the tallest church in both medieval and modern Georgia, yielding first place only to Tbilisi’s Holy Trinity Cathedral (Sameba) in 2004. Alaverdi ranks among the great cathedrals of Georgian Orthodoxy, and its cross-dome architecture became a model for many churches. Kakhetian rulers are buried in the cathedral - Queen Ketevan and King Teimuraz I.

Wine and monastery life

Alaverdi is closely tied to wine. A winery - a marani - dated to the 10th-12th centuries survives at the monastery, and today the monks are reviving the ancient qvevri tradition: here the wine is aged in large clay vessels buried in the ground. For Kakheti, the country’s main wine region, that is especially fitting. Once a year Alaverdi holds a major church festival, Alaverdoba.

What to keep in mind for a visit

Alaverdi is a working monastery, and there are dress requirements for a visit. Women need to cover their head and shoulders and wear a skirt, and men should wear long trousers; wraps and headscarves are usually handed out at the entrance. Inside the church, keep quiet, especially during services. The cathedral and the monastery walls can be viewed freely; allow about an hour for a visit.

How to get there

The monastery is in the Akhmeta municipality of Kakheti, about 25 km from Akhmeta and 20-25 km from Telavi. The easiest way is by car or on a tour from Telavi - the town that makes a natural base for trips around Kakheti. From Tbilisi the drive takes around 2.5 hours.

Nearby

Telavi makes a handy base for a trip through wine country, and the royal citadel of Gremi stands nearby. The monasteries and wineries of the region are easier to tour by car - for how to rent one, see the car hire section; other places are in the things to see section.