Telavi: capital of Kakheti wine country

Telavi is the main town of Kakheti, Georgia’s eastern winemaking region, and the former capital of the Kingdom of Kakheti. The town sits on the slopes of the Gombori ridge above the Alazani Valley, and the Greater Caucasus is visible from almost anywhere in it. For most travellers Telavi is a base from which it’s convenient to tour the wineries, monasteries and estates of Kakheti.

View of the town of Telavi and the Alazani Valley — Telavi on the slopes of the Gombori ridge; below it stretches the Alazani Valley. Photo: Zviad Avaliani / Wikimedia Commons, Attribution

Batonis-Tsikhe

The town’s main sight is the Batonis-Tsikhe palace-fortress (“the lord’s fortress”), built in the 17th century. It’s one of the few well-preserved royal residences in Georgia: here King Erekle II (1720-1798), under whom Kakheti and Kartli were united, was born, ruled and died. Today, behind the walls with their towers, there’s a palace, churches and a museum.

The palace of King Erekle II in the Batonis-Tsikhe fortress — The palace of King Erekle II behind the walls of Batonis-Tsikhe - today a house-museum. Photo: shankar s. / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 2.0

The monument to Erekle II and the plane tree

In front of the fortress, on horseback with sword in hand, stands Erekle II himself - arguably the town’s most recognisable monument. And nearby grows a living landmark of Telavi - a plane tree about 900 years old; its trunk takes several people to encircle, and it stands around 40 metres tall.

The equestrian monument to King Erekle II in Telavi — The equestrian monument to King Erekle II with his sword - he ruled Kakheti and Kartli in the second half of the 18th century. Photo: Adam Jones / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 2.0

A street in central Telavi with a carved-balcony house — The streets of central Telavi with their carved balconies; in the distance you can see the monument to Erekle II. Photo: neverstop2travel / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 2.0

Around Telavi: wine and monasteries

The region’s main riches are out of town. A few kilometres away stands the 11th-century Alaverdi cathedral - one of the tallest churches of ancient Georgia, ringed by a fortress wall against the backdrop of the Caucasus.

Road sign for Alaverdi monastery, with the whole complex and its fortress walls against the Caucasus — The roadside sign for Alaverdi monastery - the whole complex is visible with its fortress walls against the Caucasus mountains. Photo: Max Benidze / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 2.0

Nearby are the Shuamta and Ikalto monasteries and the Tsinandali estate with its park and old wine cellar. And the whole Alazani Valley around is endless vineyards and marani, where wine is made in qvevri by the ancient Kakhetian method.

The Akhali Shuamta monastery near Telavi — The Akhali Shuamta monastery (New Shuamta) among pine forest in the surroundings of Telavi. Photo: shankar s. / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 2.0

What to keep in mind

The streets and roofs of Telavi around the fortress — The streets and tiled roofs of Telavi spill down the slope around the fortress. Photo: shankar s. / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 2.0

Telavi is small, but as a base for Kakheti it’s convenient: from here it’s a short hop to Alaverdi, to Tsinandali and to dozens of wineries. Many people come for a day from Tbilisi, but for the tastings and an evening in wine country it’s worth staying the night. If you’re planning to try the wine, don’t get behind the wheel afterwards.

Nearby and beyond

Telavi is the heart of wine country Kakheti; to the south lies the “city of love” Sighnaghi, with its fortress wall and views over the same Alazani Valley. And to the east of Kakheti, towards the Azerbaijani border, it’s worth taking a day in the mountains at the Lagodekhi reserve, with its beech forests and waterfalls. For anyone heading deeper into the mountains, Telavi is also a handy launch point for Tusheti by 4x4: it is a short hop from here to Alvani, where you switch to a jeep before the Abano Pass. Most people come here from Tbilisi. For trips around the region the car hire section comes in handy, and the country’s other cities are in the cities section. The full list of places is in the things to see section.