Bodbe Monastery in Kakheti: relics of St Nino and a visit

Bodbe is a working convent in Kakheti, 2 km from Sighnaghi, on a slope above the Alazani Valley. People come for the shrine: by tradition the relics of St Nino, the woman who brought Christianity to Georgia, rest here. The monastery stands ringed by tall cypresses, and its terrace opens onto a wide view of the valley and the Caucasus range.

Why the monastery is famous

What draws pilgrims to Bodbe above all are the relics of St Nino, the woman who brought Christianity to Georgia in the 4th century. The saint died around 338-340, and a church was raised over her grave as early as the early Middle Ages; tradition links the first church to King Mirian. Because of this shrine Bodbe remains one of the country’s largest places of pilgrimage to this day.

The surviving Church of St Nino is a three-nave basilica with three apses; it is dated to the 9th-11th centuries, and in the 17th century the building was substantially rebuilt. Beside it stands a separate three-tier bell tower, raised later, in 1862-1885. The monastery operates as a convent; large-scale restoration went on here in 1990-2000 and resumed in 2003.

What to see

Besides the old church and its bell tower, the grounds are dominated by the large new St Nino Cathedral, built in modern times - noticeably bigger than the historic basilica. A cypress avenue runs between the buildings, and from the edge of the terrace opens that signature view over the green Alazani Valley and the mountains on the horizon - one of the most recognisable scenes in Kakheti.

Lower down the slope, away from the monastery, is the spring of St Nino. A path leads down to it; the water is traditionally credited with healing properties, and many pilgrims make the descent on purpose. The way there and back takes time and effort, so set aside an extra reserve for it.

How to get there

Most people come to Bodbe from Tbilisi via Sighnaghi - about 110 km and roughly 2 hours by car or on a tour. From Sighnaghi itself it’s a short drive on to the monastery, about 2 km. It makes most sense to combine Bodbe with a walk around Sighnaghi - the hilltop walled town - on a single trip through Kakheti.

What to keep in mind for a visit

Bodbe is a working monastery, and there are dress requirements for a visit. Women need to cover their head and shoulders and wear a skirt, and men should wear long trousers; wraps and headscarves are usually handed out at the entrance. Inside the churches, keep quiet and reserved, especially during services.

Bear in mind that this is a popular place: by midday it can get crowded, especially at weekends and during the pilgrimage season. It’s better to arrive early - both for the calm and for the soft morning light over the valley.

Nearby

The monastery stands by Sighnaghi - the hilltop “city of love” above the Alazani Valley, which pairs neatly with it for a single day. Gergeti Trinity Church in the north of the country is linked to Bodbe too: by tradition the Cross of St Nino was once hidden there. Other monasteries and places are gathered in the things to see section, and for how to rent a car for a trip around Kakheti, see the car hire section.