Mestia in Svaneti: Svan towers and how to get there

Mestia is a highland town in Upper Svaneti and the historical centre of this harsh mountain region. Its character is defined by the medieval Svan towers that rise straight up among the houses, with the snowy peaks of the Greater Caucasus behind them. People travel out to the north-west of the country on a trip of its own for this scene and the region’s unique culture.

Why the town is famous

Mestia stands at about 1,500 metres in the Caucasus mountains and is regarded as the main centre of Upper Svaneti. Its chief landmark is the Svan towers (koshki): a stone defensive tower is joined to a machubi dwelling house and outbuildings, all enclosed within a single wall. Towers like these defended Svan families for centuries and became the symbol of the whole region.

The medieval monuments of Upper Svaneti are inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage list. And the local history and ethnography museum holds unique icons, old manuscripts and examples of Svan gold - for centuries Svaneti kept relics that were brought here from other parts of Georgia for safekeeping.

The town itself has a small population - around two thousand people (2014 census); most of the residents are Svans, a distinct cultural and linguistic group of Georgians with their own language and traditions.

What to see and do

The main experience is a walk through the old quarters among the towers, with views of the mountains. In the museum it’s worth setting aside time for the icons and the Svan gold. Mestia is also the starting point of a popular multi-day trek to the highland village of Ushguli (usually done over four days). In winter there are ski resorts nearby - Hatsvali and Tetnuldi.

How to get there

The road into Svaneti climbs up from below, from Samegrelo. The usual starting point is Zugdidi - it’s about 128 km from there to Mestia by mountain road. There is also a local airport (Queen Tamar Airport, open since 2010), which links Svaneti with the lowlands on short flights. From Tbilisi, Kutaisi or Batumi you first make your way to Zugdidi, and from there climb up into the mountains.

What to keep in mind

This is high country, and the weather here is changeable even in summer - bring a warm layer and a rain jacket. The best time for a trip and for treks is summer and early autumn, when the mountain roads are at their most accessible. The road from Zugdidi is winding and slow, so allow plenty of time for it.

Nearby

On the way into Svaneti from Samegrelo it’s worth stopping at Martvili Canyon with its green water and waterfalls, while higher in the mountains lies Ushguli, one of the highest inhabited villages in Europe. It’s easier to get around the west and the mountains by car - for how to rent one, see the car hire section; more places are in the things to see section.