Ushguli in Svaneti: towers, Shkhara and how to get there

Ushguli is a community of medieval villages deep in the heart of Svaneti, at around 2,100 metres below Shkhara, the highest peak in Georgia. Dozens of Svan towers among stone houses, and behind them a snowy massif on the horizon: this is one of the highest continuously inhabited places in Europe and a fitting goal for the long road into the mountains.

Why Ushguli is famous

Ushguli is not a single village but a community of several settlements (Zhibiani, Chvibiani, Chazhashi, Murkmeli) in the upper reaches of the Enguri River. Its character is defined by the Svan towers, built mostly in the 9th-12th centuries: stone defensive towers attached to dwelling houses. The village of Chazhashi has preserved more than 200 such towers and is protected as a museum-reserve.

As part of Upper Svaneti, Ushguli has been on the UNESCO World Heritage list since 1996. It has its own shrine, too - the Lamaria church in Zhibiani, dated to the 12th century; inside, frescoes from the era of Georgia’s “golden age” have survived. And rising above it all is Shkhara (over 5,000 metres) - one of the main reasons to come here.

What to see and do

The main experience is a walk among the towers and stone houses with the mountains in view. It’s worth heading up to the Lamaria church on the hill above the village and to the Chazhashi museum-village with its dense cluster of towers. Ushguli is also the final point of the popular trek from Mestia (usually done over four days) and the starting point of short routes towards the Shkhara glacier.

What to keep in mind when visiting

Ushguli is really only accessible in the warm season: in winter the village spends half the year under snow, and the road to Mestia is often impassable. The road from Mestia itself is a mountain dirt track, usually tackled by 4×4. Mountain weather changes fast, and it’s cool at the top even in summer - bring a warm layer and a raincoat, and allow plenty of spare time for the journey.

Nearby

The road to Ushguli runs through Mestia - the main centre of Svaneti, with its towers and museum - and the easiest way into the region is via Zugdidi. Svaneti is easier to get around by 4×4 - for how to rent a car, see the car hire section; more places are in the things to see section.