Khertvisi Fortress: ancient walls and how to get there

Khertvisi is one of Georgia’s oldest and most striking fortresses: long walls and towers run along a narrow rocky spur above the confluence of two rivers, with the bare mountains of Samtskhe-Javakheti rising all around. The fortress stands right beside the road to the cave town of Vardzia, so people usually stop to see it on the way.

Khertvisi Fortress with towers and long walls on the rock — Khertvisi Fortress: towers and long walls run along the rocky spur. Photo: Soghomon Matevosyan / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0

Why the fortress is famous

Khertvisi is counted among the oldest fortresses in the country. The large fortification that has survived to our day is dated to roughly the 10th-11th centuries, but a fortress stood on this site in antiquity too: according to historical records Khertvisi was a town, and the last references to it date to the second half of the 18th century.

The fortress stands on a narrow rocky spur at the confluence of the Mtkvari (Kura) and Paravani rivers - a natural position that made it almost impregnable. In 1771 King Erekle II briefly recaptured Khertvisi from the Ottomans; a great deal of valuables and goods was taken out of the fortress at the time - which is what gave historians proof that Khertvisi really was a significant town.

Khertvisi Fortress on a rocky hill under a clear sky — The massive silhouette of the fortress on its rocky hill is visible from afar. Photo: Soghomon Matevosyan / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0

What to see

The main draw here is the walls and towers themselves, which follow the shape of the rock: you can climb up and walk along them, studying the masonry and the loopholes, and from above a view opens out over the valley and the river confluence. The fortress is made up of several parts and is well preserved despite its age. It looks especially dramatic from the road - a massive silhouette against the bare slopes.

Long walls and towers of Khertvisi Fortress along the rocky ridge — The walls and towers follow the shape of the rock and run along the ridge. Photo: Soghomon Matevosyan / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0

Close-up of the stone masonry of a Khertvisi Fortress wall — Up close you can clearly see the old stone masonry of the walls. Photo: Soghomon Matevosyan / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0

What to keep in mind when visiting

Khertvisi stands freely beside the road, with almost no dedicated facilities inside. The climb up to the walls is short but steep in places, and the surface is uneven - you’ll want comfortable shoes. In hot weather bring water and a hat: there is little shade. About half an hour is usually enough for a look around, and it’s easy to combine with a trip to Vardzia.

River valley and the road by Khertvisi Fortress among the mountains — The road to Vardzia runs down the river valley past the fortress. Photo: Soghomon Matevosyan / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0

Nearby

The fortress stands on the way to the cave town of Vardzia, and in Akhaltsikhe rises the restored Rabati castle. Getting around these places is easier by car - for how to rent one, see the car hire section; for more places, see the things to see section.

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