Vardzia cave town: what to see and how to get there

Vardzia is a 12th-century cave monastery complex on the slope of Mount Erusheti, on the left bank of the Mtkvari. It was carved out under King George III and Queen Tamar: the caves run along the cliff for around 500 metres and rise up to 19 tiers - about 500 rooms in all. The earthquake of 1283 exposed and damaged the complex, after which it was partly rebuilt.

The cave monastery of Vardzia on a mountainside — The cave monastery of Vardzia is carved into a sheer cliff above the Kura valley. Photo: Bernard Gagnon / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 4.0

History of the complex

Vardzia was founded by King George III and expanded on a grand scale by his daughter, Queen Tamar. The heart of the complex, the main Church of the Dormition, was carved out and painted in 1184-1186; its frescoes with a portrait of Queen Tamar are considered an important monument of medieval Georgian painting.

The rock-cut church and rooms of the Vardzia complex — The main church and the rooms cut into the body of the rock. Photo: Bernard Gagnon / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 4.0

Before the 1283 earthquake the complex was far more hidden: the underground town was concealed within the rock. The tremor brought down its outer layer and exposed the previously sealed tiers of caves - which is why Vardzia today is open to view straight from the valley.

Tunnels and passages inside the Vardzia cave town — Inside the rock, Vardzia is threaded with carved tunnels and passages between the tiers. Photo: Martin Cígler / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0

Steps cut into the rock at Vardzia — Between the tiers of the complex run steps cut straight into the stone. Photo: Henri Bergius / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 2.0

How to get there

Vardzia is about 30 km from Aspindza in southern Georgia. People drive there from Akhaltsikhe via Aspindza, following the Mtkvari valley - a scenic road that leads right up to the cliff with its caves.

The cave town of Vardzia in the mountainside above the valley — From the valley you can see the whole cave town, stretched out along the cliff. Photo: Devi Asmadiredja / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0

Nearby

To the south, in Samtskhe-Javakheti, on the way from Akhaltsikhe, stands Rabati Fortress - easy to take in on the same trip. There’s a ready-made plan for a trip south in Vardzia and the south in 2 days; it’s a long drive, so car hire and travel insurance will both come in handy. More places across the country are in the things to see section.

Photos