Lagodekhi: Georgia's first nature reserve, how to visit

Lagodekhi is Georgia’s oldest nature reserve and one of the country’s best places for hiking: beech forests, waterfalls, alpine meadows and high-mountain lakes on the slopes of the Caucasus, right on the border with Azerbaijan and Dagestan. People come here not for a single “view” but for a day, or several, in the mountains.

Why the reserve is famous

Lagodekhi was established in 1912 - the first nature reserve in what is now Georgia. Its creation is linked to the Polish naturalist Ludwik Młokosiewicz, who spent decades studying and protecting the nature here. Today the protected area is split into a strict reserve and a managed reserve, and covers more than 24,000 hectares.

The change in elevation is huge - from 590 to 3,500 metres - so a single hike can take you through several natural zones: dense beech forests in the lower reaches give way to subalpine and alpine meadows higher up. Around 70% of the territory is forested, and it is thought to hold nearly two-thirds of all the plant species in Georgia.

What to see and do

The trails are what matter here. Short routes lead to waterfalls (the Ninoskhevi Waterfall, for example), a longer one goes to the old Machi Fortress, and the best-known multi-day hike climbs to the high-mountain Grdzeli Lake, also called the Black Lake. Along the way you pass forests, meadows and panoramas of the Caucasus range. The wildlife is rich: tur, chamois, deer, bear, lynx and wolf all live here.

What to keep in mind when visiting

The best time for hiking is from late spring to autumn; the high-mountain lake is only reachable in the warm season. The routes to the peaks are long and call for some preparation, water and proper footwear; mountain weather changes quickly. Before you set off, register at the visitor centre and check the state of the trails - some routes run close to the border.

Nearby

Lagodekhi lies in eastern Kakheti, and a good base for the trip is Telavi, close to the Alaverdi monastery. The trails are easiest to reach by car - for how to rent one, see the car hire section; more places are in the things to see section.