Mtskheta: ancient capital, Svetitskhoveli & Jvari

Mtskheta is Georgia’s ancient capital and spiritual centre, just 20 km north of Tbilisi, right where the Kura (Mtkvari) and the Aragvi meet. It’s one of the oldest cities in the country and the place from which Christianity spread across Georgia, so the ensemble of churches that survives here is on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Despite its vast history, the town itself is small and quiet - easy to see in half a day.

Mtskheta where the Kura and Aragvi meet, seen from above — Mtskheta lies right at the mouth of the Aragvi where it flows into the Kura; the view is from the Jvari hill above the town. Photo: Jelger Groeneveld / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 2.0

A little history

From the 3rd century BC to the 5th century AD, Mtskheta was the capital of the eastern Georgian kingdom of Iberia. It was here, in the 4th century under King Mirian, that Georgia adopted Christianity, and for a millennium and a half the city was the heart of the Georgian church - its seat is still in Mtskheta today. In 1994 the “Historical Monuments of Mtskheta” were added to the UNESCO World Heritage List, and in 2014 the Georgian Orthodox Church declared Mtskheta a “holy city”.

Svetitskhoveli

The main church of the town and of all Orthodox Georgia is the 11th-century Svetitskhoveli cathedral. According to legend, the Robe of Christ is kept beneath it, and for centuries Georgian kings were crowned and buried here. The cathedral stands ringed by fortress walls in the very centre of Mtskheta.

The fortress walls around Svetitskhoveli Cathedral — The cathedral is surrounded by stone fortress walls with towers - it stood at the centre of a fortified town. Photo: Bernard Gagnon / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 4.0

Jvari

On the mountain above the town stands the 6th-century Jvari monastery - one of the oldest churches in Georgia. From here you get that famous view of Mtskheta and the meeting of the two rivers, the one almost every visitor to the town climbs up to see.

Samtavro

The town also holds the third monument of the ensemble - the Samtavro monastery, with its ancient necropolis. Here lie King Mirian and Queen Nana, under whom Georgia adopted Christianity.

The main church of Samtavro, seen through a stone arch — The domed church of Samtavro seen through an arch in the monastery wall. Photo: Kober / Wikimedia Commons, CC0

What to keep in mind

Mtskheta is right next to Tbilisi, which makes it an ideal day trip - it’s often combined with the climb up to Jvari and the start of the Georgian Military Road. The town lives on tourism: by Svetitskhoveli there are plenty of cafés and stalls selling wine, churchkhela and the local chacha.

A stall selling homemade chacha in Mtskheta — Stalls by the cathedral sell homemade wine and chacha - a grape spirit infused with herbs and fruit. Photo: Bernard Gagnon / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 4.0

A square in central Mtskheta with old houses and mountains — The town centre is lined with low houses with carved wooden balconies; mountains rise all around. Photo: shankar s. / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 2.0

Nearby and beyond

Most people visit Mtskheta from Tbilisi - the capital is just half an hour away. On the way and further north runs the Georgian Military Road, with Ananuri fortress and the mountains of Kazbegi. For independent trips the car hire section comes in handy, and the country’s other cities are in the cities section. The full list of places is in the things to see section.