Kutaisi: what to see, where to eat, how to get there

Kutaisi is Georgia’s third-largest city and the centre of Imereti, 221 km west of Tbilisi on the Rioni River. It’s one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world: in the 6th-5th centuries BC it was the capital of Colchis - the very land of the Golden Fleece, where the Argonauts sailed. Today Kutaisi is a calm, green city and the main base for trips around western Georgia.

Panorama of central Kutaisi and the Rioni River — Kutaisi from above: the tiled roofs of the centre tumble down to the Rioni River. Photo: Kober / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 3.0

A little history

After Colchis, Kutaisi found itself at the heart of Georgian history more than once: from 1008 to 1122 it was the capital of the unified Kingdom of Georgia, and later, from the 15th century until 1810, the capital of the separate Kingdom of Imereti. That era is recalled by Bagrati Cathedral, built by King Bagrat III in the early 11th century and visible from almost anywhere in the city.

In our own time the city briefly became the “second capital” again: from 2012 to 2018 the Georgian parliament was moved here. Kutaisi is now home to around 123,000 people.

What to see

Bagrati Cathedral. The city’s main symbol stands on Ukimerioni Hill above the centre. The early-11th-century church was badly ruined in the past and restored in modern times; from the platform nearby a panorama of Kutaisi and the Rioni opens up.

Bagrati Cathedral on the hill above Kutaisi — The early-11th-century Bagrati Cathedral on Ukimerioni Hill - the main symbol of Kutaisi. Photo: David1010 / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Colchis Fountain and the central square. The heart of the city is a large fountain with gilded figures: these are enlarged copies of ancient Colchian ornaments - aurochs, horses, deer and figures of a tamada (toastmaster) found by archaeologists. The fountain is a direct reference to the age of Colchis and is beautifully floodlit in the evening.

The Colchis Fountain with its gilded figures in central Kutaisi — The Colchis Fountain: gilded aurochs, horses and deer - copies of the ornaments of ancient Colchis. Photo: Alexkom000 / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 4.0

Around the fountain lies the central square with its old buildings, cafés and a theatre - a handy place to start a walk around the city.

The central square of Kutaisi with the fountain and an old building — The central square of Kutaisi with the Colchis Fountain and an ornate building in the Imeretian style. Photo: Alexkom000 / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 4.0

The White Bridge and the Rioni River. Over the turbulent Rioni, which cuts through the city, runs the old pedestrian White Bridge (Tetri Khidi). A walk along the embankment and through the neighbouring quarters with their old houses is the best way to feel the unhurried rhythm of Kutaisi.

The Rioni River with rapids and the White Bridge in Kutaisi — The turbulent Rioni with its rapids and the old White Bridge (Tetri Khidi) in the centre of the city. Photo: Marcin Konsek / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0

Nearby

The main reason to linger in Kutaisi is the surroundings. A few kilometres to the east is the 12th-century Gelati monastery, a UNESCO World Heritage Site with unique mosaics, and beside it the Motsameta monastery on a cliff above a canyon.

The Motsameta monastery on a cliff above a canyon near Kutaisi — The Motsameta monastery on a sheer cliff above the river canyon - a few kilometres from Kutaisi. Photo: Marcin Konsek / Wikimedia Commons, CC BY-SA 4.0

To the north are the karst Prometheus Cave, with its underground halls and river, and Sataplia with its dinosaur footprints. A little further on lie the Okatse and Martvili canyons, while on the way to Chiatura stands the Katskhi Pillar, a church perched atop a 40-metre rock.

And if you feel like climbing higher into the mountains, the road up to Racha starts from Kutaisi - a quiet wine region with the villages of Oni and Utsera and the high Shovi valley, a separate two-day road trip through Racha.

What to keep in mind

Many budget airlines fly through Kutaisi airport, so the city often becomes the first stop in Georgia - a handy place to begin a route around the country. The centre itself is compact and easily walked, while the surrounding sights are most easily reached by car or on a tour: the car hire section comes in handy. For where to try Imeretian cuisine (and the famous Imeretian khachapuri), see our where to eat in Kutaisi guide. For how to get there, see from Kutaisi airport and the transport section. The country’s other cities are in the cities section, and the full list of places is in the things to see section.